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If you’ve never painted before, check out the in-depth tutorials and tips of the day from Paint Master General Duncan Rhodes. Model tools and painting accessories: Warhammer models are simple to assemble, and they come with easy-to-follow instructions. There are plenty of companies that sell pre-made kits, including Games Workshop,, The War Store, and Secret Weapon Miniatures.
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Adding barricades, trees, ruins, and other items is the best way to avoid that. Terrain and scenery: Technically optional, if you’re okay with fighting skirmishes on bland, flat, barren landscapes. The most common method is using multi-sided RPG dice, or tiny six-sided dice with different colors. Wound markers: Many 40K models have multiple wounds, and you need a reliable way to track how many are left. Check out, Front Line Gaming, and Gamematz for some ideas. They’re fashioned from mouse-mat material, easily roll up for storage, and they’re not too pricey. Any tape measure will do.Ī gaming surface: Most players buy a battle mat with printed graphics. You’ll use your tape measure like a faithful sidearm, unleashing its fury for unit movement speeds, close combat charges, ranged weapons, and plenty more. Tape measure: Everything in 40K relies on measurements. There is an irresponsible amount of dice to drool over at Chessex and Games Workshop. 12 are acceptable, but you’ll want at least 24, eventually. It does contain some more advanced rules, but they’re not required to start.ĭice: D6’s are the lifeblood of any 40K game. But what about that hefty tome you may have stumbled across? It’s mostly stories, pictures, and flavor text. hold them together for a good 20-30 seconds to ensure they bind.The rules: The basic ruleset is 100% free. Remember that the plastic glue melts the plastic together, so you want to get a dot of glue on both sides to make a strong bond. RELATED: Warhammer Odyssey Interview: Virtual Realms Co-Founder James Yorkįinally, add glue to both pieces you are connecting. Mess around with the angle and pose of the part while you dry-fit to find the position you like the most. Rather, limbs and heads are designed such that you can put them in almost any position and they will still fit. Warhammer models are not like Lego, they don't fit perfectly together with a snap. This just means you're fitting them together before adding any glue. Next, you want to do a dry fit of the piece. They're easiest to spot on rounded pieces like legs, so if you see what looks like a seam, you should lightly file them down until smooth. These are the hard edges left behind from the molds that are used to form the individual pieces of the model. You also want to clean up any mold lines you see. If the sprue mark isn't on a joint, smoothing it down will make it easier to hide with paint.
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This is done to hide the imperfection in the model, so smoothing over that sprue mark will make it easier to connect it to the rest of your model in your desired angle/pose. Often times, that connection point is actually the joint where the piece will connect with the rest of the model. Use the curved side of your plastic cutters to cut as close to the piece as possible, then use either your penknife or file to smooth down the spot where the sprue was connected. Here are the things the instructions don't tell you:Īs you remove each piece of the model from the sprues, it's in your best interest to do some clean up on that piece.
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It usually will have you build one unit from beginning to end so you understand how it goes, then lead you through an assembly line-style build strategy: build all the legs, then add torsos, then arms, etc. The guide included with the models does an excellent job of walking you through the steps to assembly.